This was a day I had been waiting for ever since first seeing pictures of this abandoned mountaintop icon.
So, sandwiches and drinks packed, memory cards and batteries checked, my son and myself set off south through Veliko Tarnovo and into the mountains. After passing Dryanovo we caught the first glimpse of our target, then on through Gabrovo and the climb up the Shipka Pass.
As we turned onto the road to Buzludzha below the Shipka war memorial, the unrepaired and worsening road slowed things down to a crawl in places whilst we weaved around holes and ruts. Every now and then a tantalising glimpse of our quarry was visible through the trees before disappearing again. Finally, the trees opened out onto a flat area with a large statue of 2 fists holding flaming torches and an open view of the building.
We pulled over for a drink and to get the cameras out. It seems strange that such an icon that once meant so much is now abandoned to its fate of the elements and looters but it is maybe just a western observation and the ordinary Bulgarian feels no affinity for political architectural relics such as now stood before us.
Perhaps the existence of such places or the relatively recent history is a festering sore.
It put me in mind of the many Nazi built relics preserved around Western Europe, maybe time will change and soften memories and such buildings will one day be viewed as just another piece of the cultural history of this beautiful country.
Following the road up the last short stretch, just two cars were parked up, we were promised a good quiet explore.
Firstly it was a walk around the outside to get a sense of scale, getting a few shots and looking for the way in I had seen a few days earlier on someones blog.
Sure enough, tucked away around a corner, a few stones against the wall gave a foothold to reach a window which had been opened up previously with the metal shutter removed. This window entered the stairwell between floors leaving an awkward shuffle and twist in and up over a void promising a fall to the floor below for any slip.
Once in and moving away from the light of the window, it became apparent how woefully inadequate our torch was. This was even with light coming down the stairs from above so, we decided to first head up into the light and find the auditorium.
Gradually the holed roof comes into view with its coloured centrepiece largely intact. It really is a 'hairs on the back of your neck' moment as you reach the top of the stairs and look into this great dome roofed area. Unlike the staircases which have had much of the polished floor slabs looted, the auditorium floor is largely intact.
Your eyes are drawn to the mosaic wall running the circumference of the hall and inevitably to the head shaped space where the image of Todor Zhivkov, former president, used to be.
I felt compelled to walk to the centre of the floor and stand under the large ceiling centrepiece.
Strangely, as you get closer to the centre, the acoustics and parabolic effect become apparent. Even with great holes in the roof and the rafters exposed by the collapse of the ceiling, you can hear the grit under your shoes echoing around your ears with each step. That explains the opera singing we heard from a couple who were inside as we walked the exterior. Sadly, no photos or recordings of my singing and tap dancing session exist.
Venturing tentatively into the darkness with our one small dim torch, we entered a lobby with what looks like a reception area and toilets together with an array of other small rooms, maybe offices and cupboards.
After stumbling along a completely black corridor, only just spotting a large hole in the floor and numerous other hazards we arrived at the bottom of the staircase in the tower.
At this point it was decided to go no further end the exploration and to make a second visit with better torches.
As much as we wanted to head up the seemingly endless stairs in front of us you have to be mindful of where you are and the difficult if not near impossible task of getting help should you slip or fall.
Also, better torches would allow a trip down more stairs into what must be under ground level, as well as tackling the tower stairs.
By the way, some helpful previous visitor has spray painted numbers against each flight which count down from 30.
Buzludzha really is my kind of place with its sense of history, eeriness and decay.
Some fantastic photo opportunities and a feeling of 'other worldiness' after growing up through the 70's and 80's and latter cold war era. The tingle of standing beneath the ceiling with its hammer and sickle, letting the imagination have a little stretch was a great moment.
After a visit to Praktiker in VT and armed with superbright LED torches, a few days later we headed back out towards Gabrovo for our second visit. Full of excitement and blessed with the knowledge and a plan of action formed from our first visit, we climbed the Shipka pass. We noted a little more traffic than our previous trip as we negotiated the potholes of the approach road. As we reached the area below Buzludzha with the torch statues, dozens upon dozens of coaches, stewards, police and thousands of people stood before us. Old and young proudly wearing red t-shirts, waving red flags and banners. Music came from higher up the mountain and fast food vendors were busy at stalls.
One day per year the socialist party of Bulgaria invade Buzludzha for some kind of rally cum party.
One single, solitary day out of 365 per year AND THIS WAS IT!
Never mind, the second visit is still on for next time, maybe October.
If you are ever in Bulgaria, get your exploring shoes on and head up the Shipka pass, just don't forget your torch.
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